1 day in Heraklion (Iraklio) continued...

Curiosity, the different, interesting cafes, a bite to eat and more:

For a quick snack or fresh croissant, walk round Eleftherias square, past the Astoria hotel and just ahead of you, across Idomeneos street, is "Little Paris (Mikro Parisi)", a sandwich shop for those on the run.

To see the Cafe section on Korai [see map] (you could call it the "mega-socializing" centre) of Heraklion, walk down the passageway on Deadalou between the jewelry shop Gallery Deadalou and (a few doors up) Aspis Bank. Cafes of elaborate decor, with as many tables and chairs as can be crammed outside. You can find these cafes by the dominant sound of their "dance-thump" music which is transmitted some large distance and if it provides the urge to dance, hardly useful, as people come here to sit and talk (or shout ) to each other over the high output sound levels. All the cafes have similar pricing at the higher end of the coffee drinking scale! Just sample the atmosphere!

Back down Deadalou Street to 25th August - the street where travel agents and car rental companies abound at the port end, but at this point you find "Lion Square" - see the Morozini fountain (not functioning) and to your left two cafes that specialize in Bhougatsa ("Boogatsa"), a thin flaky pastry filled with a choice of cheese or sweet cream. Both versions can be ordered with ("may") or without ( "horeese"), honey ("mellee"). Perhaps surprisingly, I'd recommend having even the cheese versions, with honey - delicious! Try it! In the early mornings, many who arrive on the ferries which dock at 5 and 6 o'clock, head straight here for their welcoming Bhougatsa.
Walking past all the bhougatsa-serving cafes on Lion square, you come to Handakos street, also pedestrian-friendly, with many unique small shops - a good place for gift hunting - there are also attractively themed and decorated cafes. The street goes all the way down to the sea, passing the Road and Planet map and book shops, and near the bottom at No71, is Heraklion's Mexican restaurant, in case burritos and tacos beckon.

Just down from Lion square, off 25th August street is Theotokopoulou (El Greco) square and mini-park, where cafes now extend their outdoor seating into the pedestrianized area. This has become another "pocket" for cafe-goers.
The main OTE (phone company) building is also on this square - you can make phone calls and send faxes.

For something different, but still on the cafe trail, in an old structure on the first floor - Cafe Veneto has tall opening windows each secluding a table for two to four people, with views over the harbour and Venetian Fortress. Good service, coffee and drinks and rather delicious appetizer/snacks. Price is similar to the cafe section cafes, but well worth it. There is also an outdoor terrace. Generally open from 10.30 a.m. until the early hours of the morning. Tel: 2810-223 686. Epimenidou Street (further down 25th August - toward the sea - turn right on Epimenidou street (which is immediately before the also-interesting Minoan shipping lines building on its corner - behind which is Heraklion's slab-like catholic church), it's on your left in 200 metres.

By the sea front: there are several cafes and restaurants, mostly of the "touristy" variety. But to sit by the sea, with the fortress in view may well be worthwhile. You will also see Heraklion city's commendable effort to improve the waterfront, which is now accessible, paved - even has a new square and fountain! This renewed area stretches from the marina (at the bottom of 25th of August street) going west in the direction of the Olympic Stadium and Ammoudara beach area.

Good view points. For a different point of view, to see the whole of Heraklion beneath your feet, the best views are from the roof terraces of the Astoria Hotel (on Eleftherias Square) and the Atlantis Hotel. The Astoria sometimes has a bar open up there and a swimming pool for guests.At the Atlantis the view is not complimented by the availability of refreshments! In both cases its well worth the ride up in the lift!

Kafeneia (traditional cafes where coffee is 50% and conversation the other 50% of the event).
A great place of traditional nature but newer finish, is "Siga-siga"  a kafeneio - it's on Minotavrou just off Theotokopoulou square. Food is also available, largely Meze - appetizers, all very good, recommendation is to try many and share.

Another kafeneio off Kalokerinou - this street runs west from the top end of 25th August Street, walk a couple of hundred metres/yards until you see a shop called "Bahamas" (it is opposite No18 Kalokerinou, near Goody's) on the left and take the small left turn, at the end of this short street you walk up to a Cafe which serves coffee, beer and some good Meze. It's popular, has an art-scene atmosphere (but probably is not part of any scene!) and is reasonably priced. A few steps down the narrow walkway on the left is another nice place called "Kabiambi".

Note that when you visit a simple, good old traditional, Kafeneio you will generally pay 0.75 to 1.50 euros for a Greek coffee ("Elliniko") - cappuccinos and frappes in the smart or trendy cafes will cost from 2.50 to 4.00 euros.

We recommend for value and good food, eating at the Amateur Fisherman's Association Restaurant. This is at the port, behind the old bus station (and opposite bus station A). It is at the base of a building on the edge of the water, that looks like a gigantic concrete slab - with a virtually washed-away mural on the side. The menu is in several languages. You may not receive many smiles when eating here, but the fresh fish is guaranteed to make you smile...
Price range: D  (see below about price categories)
Telephone: 2810-223812
Next door is the incrementally smarter and slightly pricier Yacht club of Heraklion restaurant . 
Price range: DC
Both are very good and highly popular locally.

Odos Egeou (or Odos Aigaiou - "Aegean street"). Delicious and creative seafood dishes and fresh fish. This is the premier exotic fish restaurant and the most stylish in Heraklion. Great relaxing views across the harbour, as the occasional ship glides into port. Seafood salads are all good, grilled baby kalamari with lemon is splendid. Ask for the day's fresh catch.
The restaurant is elevated above the port frontage road, 3 minutes east of the centre.
Price range: A. Telephone: 2810-241410, 2810-288266.
Under the same ownership, more centrally located is Egeou Gefseis, which serves similar quality seafood and sports modern designer decor. It is on 24 Bofor street, between the Megaron Hotel and the charming Lato Hotel. Telephone: 2810-300233. There is a delivery service.

For a special meal in a wonderful terrace garden or the antique interior dining area, which has the appearance of a period house, Loukoulos on Korai (by all the Cafe Section cafes) is very good.

Loukoulos has interesting mediterranean dishes with a Greek flavour and wonderful eye-appealing salads.Telephone: 2810-224435. Price range: B/A.
Opposite Loukoulos, is the Peri Orexeos Cretan traditional cuisine small restaurant, and the BoccaLupo colourful fast-food joint.

Pagopoieion at St.Titos square (beside the big church on 25th August street) offers exceptional Mediterranean and Cretan cuisine, wonderful crisp salads and good wines. Delightful decor inside. Outside seating available in the lovely square (candle-lit and very romantic at night). One of the few places to eat and have a drink where even the toilets deserve mention as a work of art (a Must visit!). Telephone: 2810-346028. Price range: B/C.

[ Back ]    Currency Converter

  Go to next page